Leather Production - Managing Quality

MANAGING QUALITY

The dictionary definition of quality in any product is that it is the characteristic property of that product, and a measure of its standard of excellence of the product.

Quality in a finished leather, or leather product, means an attractive appearance, a long lasting material and a high standard of workmanship. It is related to price and a good quality relates to a higher price compared with a lower standard of quality. The assessment of value, for a certain quality at a certain price, depends on the customer. However, often they are not aware of differences in leather quality.

Leather production starts with a material, which is already below the top quality standard in surface appearance, in different degrees. All of the variables should be related to the raw material price. Processing aims to improve the appearance, and so add value. This will involve more costs for the lower grades, compared with the lower costs for the top quality raw material, because much more work is needed to produce an acceptable appearance. For example, the top quality aniline leather has the thin, transparent coloured finish film. Lower qualities need to have covering pigment films, which cover and disguise defects, before they can have an approximately similar aniline appearance. The focus on upgrading the lower priced material has been most successful in the supply of lower priced footwear and leather goods. Of course, it still does not really look like the top quality, but the lower price compensates for this and makes it attractive to the customer from the value aspect. The customer market has to be selected for the particular raw material and production potential available from the facilities.

STANDARDS & PROCESS CONTROLS

Leather needs to have a consistent appearance, with a consistent chemical and physical composition. It also has to behave consistently in the manufacture of the product, for example in the lasting and shaping of a shoe. Customers need to have confidence that the tannery is in control and will be a reliable supplier for quality and delivery. It is always important, but especially for exports from an industry in a developing country, where a good reputation has to be earned and maintained.

To manage quality, control of the relevant property is needed to make this reliable product from a variable raw material. Many of the characteristics of leather are subjective (appearance, feel and softness) but some are objective (thickness and colour). A quality standard does not truly refer to perfection but to an agreed balance between the customer’s need and the supplier’s capability, which may be described in the sales contract and may incorporate a sample pattern for colour, feel or type of appearance. It is also involves mutual understanding and agreement. For raw hides and skins, the standard may be the proportion of different grades of sound material, with grades based on the potential final value of the leather produced. The customer needs to have the consistency and reliability of a uniform supply, within an agreed tolerance.

Once the different standards are established, plans are made to control these at different process stages, by checks and inspections. It is known that process conditions need to be consistent to achieve reliability. Consequently, recording systems are needed, depending on the product required, to achieve the desired reproducibility. The whole manufacturing system can be developed to ensure that each employee plays a part in ensuring that each operation done is a correct step to produce the standard required. The controls need not be complicated but they should begin early in the processing and be maintained consistently.

Contributed By Mr. Woodley, Michael International Consultant May, 2007
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